BABE, Part III

Our apartment from the outside...and the view from our front door. Again, if you wanna climb those mountains, you're just going to have to get off your butt and visit us!!!

BABE, Part II

As promised, here are some pics of our new home in Bamenda...quasi-virtual-tour style. The first pic is our sparsely furnished parlor. We laid the floor and made the curtains ourselves - be proud, Mom! With all of the red and gold, I'd say we're already ready for Christmas time! Once you pass thru the curtains, you'll see the deep deep interior of BABE (next pic). To the right, you'll find our little kitchen, for which we had to buy our ancient euro fridge, cooker, stand for the cooker, and the gas canister. Back in that deep interior now, go straight ahead behind the partial wall and you'll find our bathroom. To the left, across from the kitchen, is our bedroom (see that blanket? yeah, it's cold in Bamenda in the evenings; that's what we get for living at 1600m above sea level). Next to our bedroom is the other bedroom which we just use as storage (yes, the whole apartment looked like this before we got a hold of it). And lastly, passing back thru the curtains, you get your last and final view of the parlor. Those ken chairs are nice, eh? If you wanna sit in one, you'll have to come visit us!!!

BABE

So, as you read in the "Jack and the Beanstalk" post below, our lodging situation at Sabga turned out not to be the best idea, despite Usuman's wish for it to be so. We did, however, get quite lucky in our hasty apartment search in Bamenda. We had been searching to no avail all day last week Thursday (the 9th). We even considered renting a crazy huge apartment (three bedrooms, each with its own toilet!) for $130 a month, with electricity and water excluded (the latter of which wasn't even working, so we would have had to trek to Mecca and carry huge buckets of water up three flights of stairs...to bathe, to do laundry, to flush the toilet!). Then, lo and behold, a friend of Dairou's family (remember: Dairou, our good friend/driver extraordinaire) told us of a new place in their neighborhood on the outskirts of Bamenda that had just been completed and had good security. The apartment is in a complex (where we can park the car) along with four other units. We made a deal with the landlord the next morning, and proceeded to move in ASAP. And we've been happy with the choice ever since. Each apartment has two bedrooms, a parlor, a kitchen and toilet...and it's only $50 per month! And the water is free...though freezing :) To add some extra security (besides all the bars on the windows), the landlord cemented in broken glass bottles on the top of the wall/gate to the outside -- which seems to be the main form of external security in these parts.

The only downside to the apartment is that the entire interior is painted sky blue, and the trim on the windows and doors is, as Usuman calls it, "ox-blood red." Sadie says it feels like living inside Babe the Blue Ox. :)

It took us a number of days to furnish the place. All the floors were just cement, so we needed to buy the funky plastic flooring that just about everyone has here. We sort of have a red-gold thing going for the parlor...while all the other rooms are quite the hodge-podge. We got some great ken chairs/furniture that are made locally; they've got lots of charm and are actually ergonomically sound (sorry, I'm a nerd) -- though I must say I do miss having a comfy couch! To add a little character to the place--and to get rid of some of the blue--Sadie bought some good poster paper and plastic pastels at the market to make us some paintings for the walls. Definitely a bonus when the sister accompanying you on your research adventures happens to be a crazy talented visual artist! To feel a little more in touch with the world, we also bought a radio at the market, on which we can get the BBC and sometimes the Voice of America. All other channels are either Cameroonian or Nigerian. There is no jack for a phone or cable, so internet and CNN on TV are out of the question. BUT -- the place is already starting to feel like home away from home, and it's really great to have a place of our own -- finally!

Pictures coming soon.

Worth your time…to read this post

Note to all readers: For the interest of the story, some of the events mentioned may have been placed out of sequence or may have been made up entirely. However, the integrity of the story was dutifully considered and therefore has resolved to stay nearly true to form.

Title: "Fe! Fi! Fo! Fum!"

Cast of Characters:
Jack . . . . . . Harmony
Giant. . . . . . Yerima, Usuman's bro (next Lamido of Sabga)
Faerie Lady. . . Usuman
magic beans. . . Usuman's connections
Narrator. . . . .Sadie

Scene I. "A Lucky Break"
Setting: Yaounde, a populous city with minimal archival substance to offer

Narrator: Once upon a time, there lived a "whiteman" by the name of Jack. He was a rather bright fellow who took amusement at frolicking amid the fields of research. The only worry in the world for Jack was his lack of a quality research hub where gathering and compiling data would come with ease. . . oh yeah, and the occasional computer malfunction, but that's another story. One day while Jack was inquiring around town about the best "frolicking zone", he met a special Faerie Lady who possessed magical beans that could potentially aid Jack's thirsty endeavors.
Faerie Lady: Now Jack, I will give you these magical beans if you give me something in return.
Jack: Anything! Just as long as I have a private and convenient location for my very important work.
Faerie Lady: Yes, yes, if I give you these beans, you will surely have a private and convenient space for your work. All I ask in return is that you massage my wing with some oil. Oh, God, the pain is too much. Will you do it? If so, I will gladly give you the beans.
Jack: Oh, of course! No problem!
[Jack massages wing]
Fearie Lady: Oh, thank you! Here are the beans. And one more thing. . . these beans must be soaked in water overnight, then boiled for four hours before they'll be of any use. Ciao!
Narrator: So off Jack went with careful instructions in his ears, high hopes in his heart, and magical beans in his pocket.

Scene II: "When Crying, Be Moving"
Setting: outside Jack's abode

Narrator: Jack, having 3/4 of a Type A personality, processed the beans almost exactly as told (the beans boiled for six hours, not four 'cause Jack stopped for a beer or two and kind of lost track of time). Nonetheless, they were strong, and immediately post-planting, the earth began to shake and up came the hugest beanstalk in the whole world. Honest! Jack was so thrilled, he couldn't contain his excitement.
Jack: Wow! This looks really promising!
Narrator: So up, up, and up he climbed, gaining more vigor with every lunge. Finally, Jack reached the summit.

Scene III. "The Truth Is Bitter"
Setting: Sabga, a quaint village nestled in mountains atop the beanstalk; more specifically: the Giant's compound

Narrator: So there Jack stood, gazing all around at the wonderful mountain scenery. He didn't think he had ever seen any place so beautiful in all his days. Just then, he saw out of his peripheral vision a building of the brightest blue in the whole world. Honest!
Jack: Golly gee! I think that's supposed to be my research hub! Oh boy, I can't wait to see what's inside. It appears to be perfect, at least from afar!
[Jack approaches blue "hub", opens door, and saunters on in]
Jack: Well this doesn't seem right at all!!
Narrator: To Jack's amazement, everything in the house was larger-than-life giant-sized. What was a little boy to do?
Jack: Egads! I can't work here! This place is fit for a big man, not a small boy. The parlor is massive and the dining area is even more huge!
[Jack steps into dining room and sits in a chair. The table is too high for Jack to reach]
Jack: My goodness, how am I supposed to eat here? These chairs are too large and the table is much too high. And what's more, the window is broken, there's no outlet for my computer, and parts of the ceiling are missing, creating some heavy drafts!!!
[Dismayed, Jack looks through the remainder of the house]
Jack: What?!? There's no sink in the bathroom and no frickin' door, either? And don't get me started on the bedroom! The walls aren't painted, just this "charming" cement slab, and the bed is waaaayyyy too filthy for sleeping. Dirt everywhere! No, no, this isn't promising at all!
[Without fair warning, the main door opens and in walks the Giant]
Giant: Fe! Fi! Fo! Fum! Do I smell the blood of a whiteman?
[Jack trembles in his shoes]
Jack: Tis I, sir, the whiteman you speak of. Please don't hurt me. The Faerie Lady assured me this was a private and convenient location for my very important work. Was she mistaken?
Giant: Why no, of course not! Do not be frightened little one. I am the landlord of this building and you have my word, this is a very private and convenient place for you. After all, Sabga is a quiet and safe village, perfect for the line of work you are in. In Sabga, you are free. You can ride horses. It's no problem. In towns below the beanstalk, you must pay. Here in Sabga, it's free. Did I mention you can ride horses? There's no problem.
Jack: Uh yeah, thanks. Say, are you going to do something about that broken window?
Giant: Why do you not eat meat? The Faerie Lady called and said you eat no meat.
Jack: For the same reasons you don't eat pork. You don't believe it is good for you.
Giant: Ahh, I see. Do you like horses? You will come with me to a horse race.
Jack: Sure . . . . Say, about this place that I'm apparently living in for the upcoming five months . . . I was wondering how often you use this space for your own needs?
Giant: No, it's okay. You will have this house all to yourself. I only use it once in a while. Not often.
Jack: How often is not often?
Giant: Well, I take breakfast here each morning, which I'll be expecting you to accompany me to, and I also come every evening for my dinner, and again, you will join me. But at that time, it won't be just me, but many of my friends, too. And then sometimes I'll stop by between mealtimes, just for the hell of it. Oh, and I can't forget my children. They'll be popping in regularly. I'm not sure why, they just will. Otherwise, this place is completely yours alone. You will have much privacy.
Jack: Huh . . . and do I get a key for the outside door?
Giant: Well, you have a key for your bedroom. You will keep all of your things in there. Okay, you understand everything. I will leave you to rest now.
Jack: Wait! There's no outlet in that room for my computer. Where am I supposed to work?
Giant: Uh, well, there's an outlet in the parlor. I did have a television with cable plugged into it, but I removed the tv before you came, so feel free to use that one. You see, Sabga is nice. Here, you are free.
[Giant exits stage right]
Narrator: Jack was so flabbergasted by his meeting with the Giant, he just plopped himself down on one of the enormous chairs in the parlor and meditated on the ridiculousness of his surroundings.
[on ceiling: two coca cola beach balls dangling, one sadly deflated, the other itching for a good volley; on walls: posters of New York and the previous year's horse race]
Jack: With all the mismatched furniture and frat-boy decorum, this place is an all-out Man Pad. The only thing missing is a Sports Illustrated Calendar, Swimsuit Edition. Is it possible I'm being too critical? Maybe I should sleep here for the night and think about what I'll do tomorrow.
Narrator: Never one to give up easily, Jack held his courage tightly. He grabbed a pillow & blanket and made his bed on the sofa.
Jack: I'll sleep on this tonight. The bed the Giant wants me to use is, well . . . I wouldn't allow my spoiled dog to sleep there!
Narrator: As Jack cozied himself in his makeshift bed, he thought he heard the sound of a key unlocking the side door.
Jack: Can that be possible? The Giant gave his word that there'd be no nightly disturbances. I must be hearing things.
Narrator: But Jack's ears did not deceive him. Through the darkness, he made out the figure of a woman.
Jack: Hello? What is going on? Do you need something?
Narrator: There was no reply from the woman, but soon Jack was able to see that she was one of the Giant's wives. He thought to himself that she probably forgot something and would soon be on her way. Still, Jack did not think it was right for her to enter his hub like that without first knocking, and he wondered who else might have a key. His wonderment was cut short, however, when another figure entered the side door. Unfortunately for Jack, it wasn't a woman this time, but a man! That's when he realized what was happening. The Giant's wife was making a bed for the man in the second bedroom, and like the bathroom, it had no door!
Jack: No! No! What are you doing?!? He can't sleep here. The Giant said no one else would be here at night! Please, no! There's no door for the toilet! What if I have to use the bathroom and he sees me naked?!
Narrator: The strange man argued with Jack that he was really nice and nothing bad would happen, but Jack was not convinced.
Jack: Where is the Giant? Let me speak with him! This is not right!
Narrator: Jack stormed out of the building and ran to his landlord's house.
Jack: I do not want that strange man sleeping in the other room. He has no door and there's no door for the toilet. What if he sees me naked? My husband would be very upset!
Narrator's interjection: Yes, Jack has a husband.
Jack: I'm sure he is a very nice man, but I do not know him and my husband wouldn't like it. Please! It is a very bad situation.
Giant: Okay, no, it's no problem. That is fine.
Jack: You know, I think it would be better for everyone if maybe I found a different place. That way, you and your family could use the building as you wish. It would be easier. Besides, it's too far down the beanstalk to use internet and I'd be really exhausted. Is that okay?
Giant: No, it's no problem. That is fine. But at the bottom of the beanstalk, you must pay. It is not free, and there are no horses. In Sabga, you are free and it is very peaceful. But, if you want to go, that is fine. You can do as you like.
Jack: Oh, thank you. I am sorry, but it is simply not a good situation. Turns out, this place isn't private or convenient at all!
Giant: No, it's no problem. You can go.
Narrator: Mortified, Jack slinked back to his now defunct hub, and hoped his carefree frolicking days were not over. He barely slept that night and when morning came, he gathered his things and slid down the beanstalk, never to be heard of in Sabga again . . . aside from the occasional interview.
THE END!

On to Bamenda!!

Apologies again for the delay in posting! Sadie and I have recently moved to Bamenda and have been busy setting up shop. It's been a crazy week...to say the least. So just keep posted. We'll have something juicy up in the next few days or so....barring any electrical outings. :)

“Cripples Can’t Carry Cake” (Sadie’s alliteration)

Thanks to everyone who sent me birthday wishes on Friday; it really means a lot to hear from all of you. And to add to this, the day itself turned out to be a lot of fun: perhaps this is the beginning of the end of my October-bad-luck streak! Cross your fingers for me, K? (To fill you in, not only was October replete with technical misfortunes, but on Nov. 1st, there was a bit of a “household accident” whereby the pinky toe on my left foot nearly broke; so basically I’m lame at the moment. Should do wonders for my informant relationships when I interview disabled Hausa beggars, J/K.)

Despite my being a temporary cripple, Sadie, Dairou and I went out for the day to run some errands, one of which was to pick up my long-awaited research permit…that I ended up getting for free! I also had maps of my fieldwork area printed, checked emails (which we hadn’t been able to do for over a week), and we picked up ice cream and cake for the evening. (One nice consequence of being lame, I have found, is that little sisters have to carry everything for you, including your own birthday cake!) For lunch, Sadie and I scarfed (word?) down couscous, pineapple and yoghurt; and Ivan and I had a great talk on the phone that wasn’t compromised by horrible static and low rates of connectivity – for once! When evening rolled around we indulged our sweet teeth {see cake pic: from top left going clockwise: Sadatou, Flore (a girl living at the house with Usuman’s family), Halima, Adama and me} while watching “The Bourne Identity” on a borrowed projector.

All in all, a fab day. Let’s hope it’s all good from here on out!

Fasting and the Fête de Ramadan

As many of you know, the holy month of Ramadan ended over a week ago, on the 23rd of October. Though some of you have perhaps—and unfortunately—associated the passing of Ramadan this year with the so-called “fourth deadliest month” in Iraq since the war began, we hope that this small post will help change that perception a bit with something a little more positive.

To fill you in (if need be), Ramadan is a month of fasting and of prayer. One is denied food AND drink during daylight hours, so breakfast is had before sunrise (about 4:00am here), and families break the fast of the day after sunset (6:30pm). Children may chose to fast for 2, 4, 6, etc number of days (as long as it’s an even number) to prepare them gradually for when they will need to fast for the entire month as a mature adolescent. We decided to do the same, fasting for 4 days with the family. The first two days we fasted were OK and passed without incident; the second day was particularly nice as we ended up spending it at the beach! But the last two days we fasted, just before the end of Ramadan, we both got horrible headaches. Probably had something to do with driving around in a car trying to shop for food that we couldn’t eat. Sadie ended up getting car sick and almost vomited. Do NOT let you’re little ones try this at home!

On a more positive note, we learned that when you break the fast in the evening, you eat different kinds of foods than you would normally for dinner…and they’re yummy! You start off by drinking tea, and there are plates of oranges, bananas, papaya sprinkled with lime or lemon (we’re not sure which one…both are called “citron” here), avocado smothered in mayonnaise (Cameroonians call avocados “pears”), deep-fried dough rings and fried bean cakes (kosai) from the Hausa quarter of Yaoundé (known as “Bric”…make sure you roll the “r” big time). And the meat-eaters, of course, had their beef. All in all, breaking the fast together with the family is a really wonderful experience. Toward the end of the month, though, everybody is so tired; Usuman and Habiba said they didn’t really even feel the hunger anymore, it’s just that their bodies were completely worn down.

The day of the Fête de Ramadan, which Muslims here call “Salla,” seemed to be a big relief for just about everyone – except for Habiba who was cooking for everyone all day. It was a day of getting dressed up in your new clothes and finery, of good food and music, and of celebration with friends and family. And in most Muslim villages and towns in Cameroon the festivities lasted throughout the week.

In sum, while this is a VERY brief summary of how our friends in Cameroon’s Muslim community experienced Ramadan, we hope it will help balance out whatever CNN has been showing you from the frontlines in the Middle East. PEACE!

(Pic above: The lady to the left of Sadie is Habiba, Usuman’s wife; most of the other people in the photo are relatives of Usuman and Habiba.)

Back in the game

Apologies AGAIN for not posting in over a week! I’ve had a number of computer problems to deal with over the past month, and I thought they all would have sorted themselves out a week ago. But most things just seem to take somewhat longer to solve when you’re overseas (or it just seems longer because the time I have here is so finite!). I’m happy to write, however, that all of my technical issues are now 99% A-OK! (The 1% is reserved for the left-over anxiety I’m still carrying around with me.)